Phototoxicity in perfumes and a special summer version of Andaman Island
Have you ever wondered why some perfumes evoke a sense of raw freshness, while others carry a more refined and polished character? In a recent video (featured above), Florian, the master perfumer behind Laborynthia , takes us behind the scenes of a special project—creating an extra version of the beloved fragrance Andaman Island . This new creation, crafted with cold-pressed citrus oils, is designed to deliver an even more vibrant and summery experience. But, as Florian explains, there's more to the citrus oil story than meets the nose.
Let’s dive deeper into the fascinating world of perfume chemistry and creativity to uncover why cold-pressed oils shine, why they're controversial, and why Florian felt compelled to bring this special version to life.
The Star of the Show: Cold-Pressed Citrus Oils
Florian begins by demonstrating the stark difference between two types of bergamot oils: cold-pressed and distilled . Holding up each oil to the camera, he points out their contrasting appearances. The distilled oil is clear, while the cold-pressed version glows with a rich, vibrant hue. And the smell? Worlds apart.
Describing the cold-pressed bergamot oil, Florian almost swoons. “This is southern Italy!" he exclaims. "It’s ripe, it’s round, it’s juicy and fresh—this is summer holiday on a strip, summer holiday in a bottle!” The cold-pressed oil captures the raw, unfiltered essence of the fruit, infusing it with a vibrant, joyous quality that distilled oils simply can’t replicate.
So Why Distill at All?
If cold-pressed citrus oils smell better, why would anyone distill them? As Florian explains, the answer lies in chemistry and safety.
Cold-pressed citrus oils naturally contain furocoumarins , a group of phototoxic molecules (like bergapten) that react with sunlight. When these molecules come into contact with your skin and are exposed to UV rays, they reduce your skin’s ability to handle ultraviolet radiation. Essentially, cold-pressed citrus oils have the opposite effect of sunscreen—they amplify the sun's effects, making you more prone to sunburns or those unwanted little brown spots.
This isn't just a hypothetical issue—it’s so significant that the European Union has imposed restrictions, effectively banning the use of cold-pressed citrus oils in cosmetic products that could be exposed to sunlight.
“Back in the day, our grandmas used to say, ‘If you put on perfume, don’t go out in the sun,’” Florian recalls. It’s age-old wisdom backed by modern science.
A Compromise for Safety
Distillation removes the phototoxic furocoumarins, making the oils safe for use on skin during sunny days. However, Florian doesn’t hold back on his critique of this process. “They try hard, but the two oils cannot be more different,” he says. Heating the oils to 100° Celsius and distilling them alters their character drastically, stripping away the ripe, robust, and vibrant qualities that make cold-pressed citrus oils so special. The result is a tamer, less impactful scent.
While the distilled oils are safer for everyday use, Florian doesn't shy away from acknowledging their limitations: "It doesn't compare. Unfortunately, it’s just not the same."
A Special Request: Andaman Island with Cold-Pressed Oils
For Florian, the allure of cold-pressed citrus oils was too intense to ignore. Add to that the insistence of his loyal customers, and the result is a special summer edition of Andaman Island that uses these vibrant oils.
But Florian is careful to include a big disclaimer: “If you wear this version, don’t go sunbathing, okay? Or spray it on your clothes. Just save it for the evening—you'll smell incredible at the club or on a night out!”
Cold-pressed citrus oils smell bolder and last longer, meaning this limited version of Andaman Island won’t just transport you to a Mediterranean summer holiday; it’ll stick with you as the night unfolds.
Chemistry Meets Nature
Florian doesn’t just stop at perfume—he takes us on a broader journey into the chemistry of phototoxicity. He explains that this effect isn’t limited to fragrances. “If you’re mixing a Caipirinha on Copacabana, and the lime peel oil gets on your hands, you’ll experience the same thing,” he says. The fact is: nature and chemistry don’t always cooperate with our plans for long walks in the sun.
This makes his decision to offer the cold-pressed version of Andaman Island all the more intriguing. He’s not just crafting a perfume—he’s inviting us to take part in an olfactory adventure that’s as bold and honest as nature itself. And for those who are willing to take the extra precautions (or simply wear it in the evening), the reward is worth it.
The Best of Both Worlds
Ultimately, Florian offers his customers the choice: stick with the distilled-oil version of Andaman Island , perfect for everyday use under the sun, or indulge in the bolder, more expressive cold-pressed edition, perfect for evenings, special occasions, or when the sun isn’t a factor. Both versions have their place, and that’s the beauty of this project—it honors the complexity of fragrance lovers and the art of perfumery.
Your Turn to Explore
Are you curious to experience the difference between cold-pressed and distilled citrus oils? Florian has crafted a fragrance that lets you do just that. Whether you choose the safety of distilled oils or the raw beauty of cold-pressed, one thing's for sure: Andaman Island is a scent worth discovering.
Watch the full video above to get Florian's passionate and detailed breakdown, and let us know: Would you prefer the boldness of cold-pressed citrus oils, or would you play it safe with distilled? Do you think the EU's regulations are too cautious, or do they make sense? Share your thoughts in the comments below!